What Is Latigo Leather?

Different types of leather are identified by their origins, the materials they’re composed of, or the methods used in their tanning and finishing processes.

Latigo leather is made from cowhide and goes through a unique process that includes both chrome and vegetable tanning. This special treatment makes the leather both strong and flexible, setting it apart with a distinct, slightly greasy feel known as “pull-up.” It’s especially popular for creating durable shoes and boots that age beautifully, gaining a nice patina over time.

Even though it is more expensive, its durability and the way it can be used in various designs make it popular among designers. If you’re thinking about getting something made of latigo leather, understanding how it’s made and its benefits can help you decide if it’s the right choice for you.

What Is Latigo Leather?

Latigo leather comes from the Spanish word for “whip” and is made from cowhide. It’s treated twice: first with chrome, making it strong and a bit oily, and then with vegetable substances, like oak bark, to make it soft and good at aging, developing a deep color over time. This double treatment makes latigo leather cost more than regular cow leather. Originally for horse gear like whips and reins, latigo became popular for cowboy boots in the 1970s because it’s durable and ages well.

When was Latigo Leather Created?

Latigo leather’s journey began in the late 19th century in San Francisco at Poetsch & Peterson and became famous with Horween Leather Co for G. H. Bass moccasins. Now, it’s made worldwide, with Maverick Leather Company being a top maker. Initially made with aluminum salts, it now uses a two-step process: chrome and vegetable tanning. This gives latigo leather unique and liked qualities.

How Latigo Leather Is Made

Latigo leather, made from cow skin, undergoes a two-step tanning process for its unique qualities. It starts with chrome tanning, where the hide is soaked in acidic solutions and then dried. Following this, it’s vegetable-tanned using natural plant solutions. To finish, the leather is treated with oils and waxes, which make it both strong and flexible. 

This mix of chrome and vegetable tanning, plus the final oil and wax treatment, gives latigo leather its distinctive durability and softness. Each part of the process plays a vital role in creating high-quality latigo leather.

Chrome tanning

Once the hide is cleaned, it goes into big tanks with chemicals like chromium sulfate and salts. This technique is widely used because it’s quick, affordable, and effective, producing leather that’s soft, durable, and beautifully colored. The process can be completed in just a few hours up to one day.

Vegetable tanning

After its first dip, the leather is soaked in a natural blend of vegetable origins like oak bark and spruce, along with other plants such as quebracho and olive leaves. This step uses no chemicals, just plant tannins. Leather that’s only treated with these plants might fade or weaken quickly. But doing a chrome tan first keeps the leather’s color better and makes it more durable.

Dyed Tumbling

After the second bath, the hides are put into spinning drums for dyeing. This spinning helps the leather take in the dye well, so the color looks smooth and even. As the drums spin, the leather becomes softer, and its pores open up, making it easier for the dye to penetrate deeply.

Fat-liquoring / Oiling

After dyeing, it’s coated with a mix of grease and oil. This step makes the leather more bendable, soft and keeps it from drying out and cracking, creating the distinct look of “pull-up” leather. The leather doesn’t need this oil treatment again unless it’s exposed to a lot of water, heat, or something that strips off the oil.

Wet-stuffing

The hide then goes into a mix of special oils or fats, making it stronger. This happens between two important steps called fat-liquoring and hot-stuffing, ensuring the leather becomes more durable

Hot-stuffing

The last step in making latigo leather involves using a mix of oils, wax, and fat heated in big barrels. The heat helps these parts get deep into the leather, adding moisture to keep it flexible. This prepares it perfectly for use in making saddles.

Unique Characteristics of Latigo Leather

Quality

Latigo leather is tough and flexible, great for heavy use. It doesn’t get damaged by water or sweat because it’s filled with oils when made. The leather is made using both chrome and vegetable tanning, making it stiffer than just chrome-tanned leather but not as hard as just vegetable-tanned leather. Its excellent quality is due to this unique process, making it great for products that need to last under stress.

Appearance

Latigo leather usually comes in burgundy but is also available in black, various browns, reds, and light colors. It gets better with age, developing a lovely patina over time.

Texture & Feel

Latigo leather is soft, strong, and smooth. It often has a greasy look due to wax. But, you can also find it with matte or shiny finishes, though these options are rare.

Flexibility

Latigo leather is in the middle when it comes to how bendy it is. It’s made with two tanning methods, making it softer than just vegetable-tanned leather but a bit firmer than chrome-tanned leather. This balance makes it useful for lots of different things and helps it stay soft as time goes by. It’s also pretty easy to cut and stitch, adding to its versatility.

Durability

Latigo leather is strong and long-lasting. It resists water, adding to its toughness, and is flexible, so it stands up well to wear and tear. Over time, it gets a special look called a patina, making it truly one-of-a-kind.

Color

Originally, Latigo leather, created by the tannery Poetsch & Peterson, had a golden yellow color. Over time, new colors were introduced to match changing trends and preferences. Nowadays, you’ll mostly find latigo leather in burgundy, but it’s also available in black, brown, and sometimes in red or navy.

Water-resistant

Latigo leather is good at resisting water, but it shouldn’t be overly exposed, soaked,  or have its protective layer weakened. Regularly applying a waterproof wax will help maintain its protective layer and stop water stains from forming on the leather.

Maintenance

Caring for latigo leather is simple because of its double-tanned nature. If it gets wet, let it dry naturally and keep it away from other items to avoid color transfers. To clean, you need just saddle soap, a smooth, lint-free cloth, and distilled water, avoiding tap water due to its mineral content. Wipe gently in circles, avoiding harsh rubbing.

Cost

Latigo leather is pricey, costing about $180 to $250 per hide. This is because it’s hard and slow to make, needing many steps and materials. However, it’s very durable, so whatever you make with it will last a long time. This means you won’t have to replace items often, making the initial cost worth it in the long run.

What is Latigo Leather Commonly Used For?

Latigo leather is super flexible and great for many uses because it’s tough, durable, can bend well, and doesn’t get ruined by moisture. It’s used in a bunch of things like:

• Harnesses
• Laces
• Cords
• Straps
• Pet Collars
• Leashes
• Bags
• Footwear

Advantages of Latigo Leather

This versatile leather is mainly used in a variety of applications due to its unique attributes. Here’s a brief rundown:

• Flexible and Durable: Treated with oils and wax, making it stretchy and long-lasting.
• Water-Resistant: Ideal for items exposed to elements, keeping moisture out.
• Develops Patina: Gets a unique glow over time, enhancing its look.
• Softens Over Time: Starts stiff but becomes more comfortable with use.
• Heavy but Strong: Heavier than some leathers but very good at resisting wear and moisture.
• Versatile Use: Great for durable products like wallets, belts, boots, and horse gear.
• Unique Look: Stands out because of its distinctive style.
• Retains Shape: Maintains its form, even with regular use.

Disadvantages of Latigo Leather

Despite the many benefits of Latigo leather, it’s important to also consider the potential downsides that come with using this type of material.

• Limited Finishes: Can’t be stamped, tooled, or patterned due to its elastic and greasy texture.
• Heavier Weight: May be less comfortable for large items because of its weight.
• Higher Cost: More expensive than similar leathers, due to complex and lengthy production.
• Color Bleeding Risk: High wax or oil content can lead to color transfer if wet or in contact with light-colored materials.
• Care Tips: Keeping it dry and away from wet surfaces, plus using water-resistant sealant or beeswax, can reduce bleeding risk.

How to Care for Latigo Leather

Latigo leather might stain your skin or clothes with its color if it gets wet. To avoid this, make sure the leather and your skin are dry before using it. You can also apply a water-resistant sealant to protect it from water. Adding a little conditioner with beeswax will also keep the leather looking good and flexible.

Taking care of latigo leather is straightforward. Just a few simple steps for cleaning and keeping it can help it last for many years.

How to Clean Latigo Leather?

Cleaning latigo leather is easy. Start by removing dust and dirt. Use wipes without perfume or alcohol, or a lint-free cloth. Then, take a soft cloth, warm water (distilled is best), and mild soap, like saddle soap. Don’t soak the leather; the cloth should be damp, not wet. Apply the soap gently, tapping and making slow circles, to keep the leather nice. Let it dry completely before you condition it.

How to Condition Latigo Leather?

Latigo leather looks better as it ages, so avoid conditioning it too often. It’s fine if it shows wear; that’s part of its beauty. Over-conditioning can harm the leather.

If it’s been exposed to lots of sun or dryness, you might need to condition it a bit earlier. Generally, one or two times a year is enough.

To condition, gently rub in a special leather conditioner with a soft cloth in circular motions. If you use too much, just wipe off the excess.

If the leather isn’t repelling water well anymore, applying beeswax can help. Just melt some beeswax and apply it lightly.

Make sure to let the leather dry fully before you put it away. This helps keep it in good shape for a long time.

How to Store Latigo Leather?

Store your latigo leather away from damp, heat, and sunlight. Make sure the area is well-ventilated so the air isn’t too dry or damp. This stops moisture from building up and causing mold or the leather to get too dry and crack.

Comparison

Latigo leather is a mix of both vegetable-tanned and chrome-tanned leather because it’s made using both methods. Chrome-tanned leather is flexible and good with water but doesn’t last as long or develop a patina like latigo does.

Vegetable-tanned leather is durable like latigo and can also gain a patina over time, but it’s the better choice for detailed tooling and stamping. Both latigo and vegetable-tanned leather are more expensive than chrome-tanned leather due to their more complex making processes.

Final Thoughts

Latigo leather, treated with both chrome and vegetable tanning, offers durability and flexibility. Despite being expensive, its unique qualities, including the development of a patina over time, make it a favorite among designers. To keep its quality intact, occasional conditioning and proper storage are essential. Latigo leather’s versatility and distinct characteristics make it a valuable choice for crafting enduring leather products

Frequently Asked Questions

What Are Some Famous Brands That Use Latigo Leather in Their Products?

You’re likely familiar with brands like Saddleback Leather and Timberland. They’re known for using Latigo leather in their high-quality products, showcasing its durability and unique finish in their boots, bags, and accessories.

Is Latigo Leather Considered a Sustainable Material?

Yes, you’d consider latigo leather a sustainable material. It’s created from cowhide, a byproduct of the meat industry, reducing waste. However, its tanning process can be environmentally challenging, so it’s not completely eco-friendly.

Can Latigo Leather Be Used for Vegan-Friendly Products?

No, you can’t use latigo leather for vegan-friendly products. It’s made from cowhide, a byproduct of the meat industry, which doesn’t align with vegan principles of avoiding all forms of animal exploitation.

How Does the Price of Latigo Leather Compare to Other Types of Leather?

Compared to other types of leather, latigo tends to be more expensive. It’s a high-quality, durable material, often used in outdoor gear and horse tack, which justifies its higher price point.

What is the difference between latigo leather and bridle leather?

While both latigo and bridle leather are popular choices for horse gear, they have distinct characteristics. Latigo leather is known for its strength and flexibility, while bridle leather is valued for its smooth finish and ability to develop a rich patina over time.

How is latigo leather tanned?

Latigo leather is typically tanned using a combination of oils and waxes to achieve its distinctive strength and durability. The tanning process may involve vegetable tanning techniques, resulting in leather with excellent resistance to stretching and weathering.

How does latigo leather compare to other types of leather?

Unlike some other types of leather, latigo leather is valued for its ability to withstand tension and pressure, making it an ideal choice for heavy-duty applications such as saddlery and outdoor gear. It is also known for developing a beautiful patina with age, adding to its appeal.

What should I know about the modern uses of latigo leather?

In modern times, latigo leather continues to be a popular choice for crafting durable and stylish leather goods, including high-quality belts, wallets, and handbags.

Resources Used for Research

• Caring for Leather, Skin and Fur
• Conservation of leather and related materials
• The manufacture of leather
• Leather Tooling and Carving
• Leather Processing, Its Effects on Environment and Alternatives of Chrome Tanning
• Leather Processing & Tanning Technology Handbook
• Vegan Fashion Grows More Fashionable as Textile Technology Improves